An Introduction to New York Style Barbecue

Given the diversity of the New York food scene, one of its great mysteries is why certain regional or ethnic cuisines struggle to take root.

At any time of day, there are at least two programs about Barbecue competitions somewhere on basic cable. It is now a national tradition, yet New York struggles to come up with a credible joint.

There are many places in the five boroughs that offer southern comfort food. There aren't any good ones. The one exception is Blue Smoke, however, it's too upscale to count as traditional. It's a good restaurant, with a nice selection of bourbon. However, this discussion only pertains to places where you wouldn't take clients.

There are two factors which restrict the growth of barbecue in New York:

1) The ignorance of the local market. The historic lack of barbecue makes it hard for locals to distinguish good from bad. With nothing else to go on, New Yorkers gravitate towards cartoon pigs and hubcaps on the walls.

2) Space and zoning. Proper barbecue restaurants are difficult to introduce in dense urban areas. Whatever slow-smoking device used needs a proper flue, which can be tricky. Also, such restaurants require steady source of hardwood, and space to keep it.

In response, New York has developed its own take on barbecue. This style was created by three local chains, Dallas BBQ, Dinosaur BBQ, and Brother Jimmy's.

When it comes to smoked meat, all three are below average. Pork shoulder, ribs, brisket, and chicken are all served dry, slightly greasy, and under seasoned. Portions are small, expensive, and served with equally lifeless sides.

In traditional southern terms, they are terrible. But to write them off on these grounds is to miss the point. New York style barbecue isn't about barbecue.

The crown jewels of New York barbecue are alcoholic beverages, served as a slush or punch in a lucite goblet with a little umbrella in it. House specials are often named after natural disasters. In New York barbecue, the food is just there to soak up the booze.

In terms of design, these restaurants are meant to satisfy Upper West Side preconceptions of what West Virginia must be like. In a phrase, it's 'Cracker Barrel chic.' This means rusty farm implements and concert bills for old country music stars. In this regard, New York barbecue restaurants were trendsetting. They picked up on the dilapidated barn aesthetic well before anyone in Brooklyn got the idea.

New York style barbecue may not match up with the best America has to offer. But after a fourth Hurricane Sandy Shandy, who cares?